Halgrimson: Experiment with the versatility of bay leaves

• California bay laurel

Leaves from the California bay laurel tree can be added to a variety of foods. David Samson / The Forum

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“The Bay leaves are of as necessary use as any other in the garden or orchard, for they serve both for pleasure and profit, both for ornament and for use, both for honest civil uses and for physic, yea, both for the sick and the sound, both for the living and the dead; ... so that from the cradle to the grave we still have use of it, we still have need of it.”  – John Parkinson, from “A Garden of Pleasant Flowers,” “Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris,” London (1629)

My California bay laurel tree is one of my most treasured plants. It is about 9 years old and has faithfully supplied both me and my friends with leaves. It sits in a pot in the south window in the kitchen, and in the spring when danger of frost has passed, I carry it out to the garden.

The leaves, which can be used directly from a plant or dried, can be added to soups, stews, hotdishes, marinades for grilled meats and vegetables and stocks. One fresh bay leaf can be substituted for two dried leaves.

The English add a leaf to rice pudding at the start of cooking, which gives it a peppery flavor.

But bay is most often used in a bouquet garni usually with the addition of fresh thyme, marjoram, parsley and black peppercorns all tied in a cheesecloth bag and added to infuse savory dishes.

California bay leaf is stronger than Turkish bay, which is said to have a more complicated flavor. Use two Turkish bay leaves in place of one California bay.

In ancient Greece and Rome wreaths made of laurel were used to crown winning emperors. It was also thought to be therapeutic for arthritis. Later herbalists suggested bay leaves for the treatment of worms, cough, itching and infectious diseases and other ailments. Native Americans and early colonists used it to promote labor and menstruation and to treat arthritis, headaches, urinary difficulties and the bites and stings from insects.

The California bay laurel’s family tree includes avocado, cinnamon and nutmeg.

In the spring propagate the bay plant by bending a stem down to the soil, nicking the stem where it touches the soil and covering the stem with soil and placing stones on it. It takes from six months to a year to see results.

Bouquet Garni

3 sprigs of parsley

1 sprig of marjoram

1 sprig of thyme leaves

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon whole peppercorns

Fold fresh herb sprigs in two. Place herbs and peppercorns in several layers of cheesecloth and tie the bundle tightly together with cotton string.

Note: In Provençe, rosemary and orange peel are often added, as are cloves and fennel or celery leaves.

Bay Leaf Liqueur

2 cups vodka

50 fresh bay leaves

1 large cinnamon stick

Rind of 1 large lemon

2 cups water

2 cups sugar

In a quart jar made of glass, steep bay, cinnamon and lemon rind in vodka for two weeks. Pour the mixture through a paper filter into another glass jar. Boil water sugar to make a syrup, cool and add the syrup to alcohol mixture. Bottle and age for several weeks. (Recipe adapted from “Sicilian Home Cooking,” by W. and G. Tornabee.)

Black Olives with Mixed Herbs

1 cup Kalamata olives

2 fresh bay leaves

1 tablespoon grated orange zest

2 roasted garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 to 4 lightly crushed pepper corns

2 sprigs of thyme, broken into pieces

Good olive oil to cover

Combine ingredients in a glass jar and mix well. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Sources: “The Food Lover’s Companion” by Sharon Tyler Herbst; www.prairienet.org/herbsociety; www.theepicentre.com; www.gardenaction.co.uk; www.abc.net.au/overnights/stories/s1284240.htm

Readers can reach Forum Food Columnist Andrea Hunter Halgrimson

at ahalgrimson@forumcomm.com

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