Pub lives up to name

• Cozy atmosphere

Patrons have embraced the cozy atmosphere of the new JL Beers in downtown Fargo. David Samson / The Forum
• Pouring a brew

Dan Vogel pours a Honker’s Ale at JL Beers in downtown Fargo. David Samson / The Forum

Talk about it

More...

• Map: JL Beers

It can be difficult to review a restaurant that has five entrees on the menu, all of them burgers. There’s only so much to say.

But the fact is JL Beers isn’t just about burgers, although the downtown pub does have really good burgers, and I’ll say more on that later.

But Beers is about beer. Lots and lots of beer. It might be the best beer selection in Fargo, West Fargo and Moorhead and out about as far as anyone would want to go for a beer.

And the atmosphere is ideal for a pub – long and narrow giving plenty of wall space to beer. There are a couple of tables in the back but most of the 24 seats are at the bar. On a good night there might be a wait, and there’s no place to wait inside, so wear a hat.

Once you get a seat you’ll find more than 30 beers on tap, and a spigot at the end for 1919 draft root beer – not be scoffed at, by the way; it’s been a by-the-keg-only favorite for the temperate sweet tooth for a little better than 20 years. Nothing goes better with a really good burger for the designated driver in the group.

The rest of the row is given up to a wide variety of American, English, Belgian and German beers and a bunch of other international favorites. There’s enough variety that if you plan dinner once a week and start from one end, you’ll make it all through the winter and well into summer without repeating a style.

Cracking a can open or twisting a cap off seems almost unnecessary. A pint of something special will run you around $5, with domestics being considerably cheaper. And, because Christmas only comes once a year, a big-enough-for-two bottle of the Belgian liquid candy known as Raspberry Framboise will run you $20.

The beer menu is descriptive and can walk you through your selection. But the pleasant surprise is the people behind the bar. They’re not second-rate bar-rag bimbos. They know their stuff.

When asked for something light but substantial and a little fruity, our server, Andrea, produced a pint of Hoegaarden exactly as cold as a good wheat beer should be. When asked for something quintessentially English, she delivered a black and tan, half Guinness and half Bass. The point here is that you don’t need to know about beer. You just need to know what you feel like. The JL Beers staff will do the rest. If you’re still not sure after a free consultation, you can get a flight of half-a-dozen or so for under $10.

Oh yes. The burgers. While the best-burger debates can go on and on, the truth is, there’s not much to a burger, and JL Beers seems to understand that.

Fargo-Moorhead has split the burger market between frozen patties that clatter when dropped on the grill on one hand, and gorgonzola-graced designer chopped steak on the other. JL Beers makes an honest burger for under $4. There’s not much more to talk about.

I like the Humpty Dumpty burger with an egg and bacon. It’s a good burger and, with a cold beer, it’s near heaven. Sides include fries or fresh-cut chips for around $2.

There’s history to the JL name. It’s a reminder of Jim Lauerman’s place that used to be around the corner on Broadway. Lauerman’s served its beer in big goblets with pickled eggs and pretzels. JL Beers puts a burger down on the bar with the same naked matter-of-factness. It’s good food and great beer in a warm pub with good people behind the bar.

Restaurant review

JL Beers

518 1st Ave. N.

Fargo

Cuisine: American

Ratings:

• Food: Two and a half stars
• Service: Three stars
• Ambiance: Three stars

Dining details

• Hours: 10 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily. The grill closes at 10 p.m.
• Phone: (701) 492-3377
• Reservations accepted?: No
• Alcohol: Beer
• Dress: As you like
• Credit cards accepted: Visa, Mastercard, Discover, American Express

Eric Daeuber is an instructor at Minnesota State Community and Technical College. Readers can reach him at food@daeuber.com.

Tags: jl beers, north dakota, restaurants, food, fargo, communities, life