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Published July 10, 2012, 11:30 PM

Doeden: Simple turnovers make good use of cherries

As soon as I see shiny dark red cherries in the grocery store, my mind floods with memories of summer days spent with my grandparents on their Indiana farm.

As soon as I see shiny dark red cherries in the grocery store, my mind floods with memories of summer days spent with my grandparents on their Indiana farm.

Midway through the summer, my dad would pack up the trunk of the Chrysler and drive me and my mom and my brother from our home in St. Paul all the way to the Indiana farm – in a car with no air conditioning. Hot kids sharing a back seat can get cranky. I’m sure that annual drive was not a high point of parenthood for my mom and dad.

Once at the farm, though, it was three weeks of bliss. There were no toys for us to play with, but my brother and I always had a grand time making our own fun. I loved climbing into the cherry tree that grew near the large garden planted with strawberries and vegetables.

Sometimes, as I nestled into a crook of a thick limb on the tree, I was lucky enough to pluck a few plump ripe cherries before the birds got them. I’d pop the smooth, hard, glossy cherries into my mouth, enjoy the sweet juiciness, and spit the pit as far as I could from my perch in the tree.

I still love cherries, although I’ve stopped spitting the pits (except when no one is watching). I don’t remember my grandmother making any special treats with the cherries from her tree. Maybe that’s why I seldom make the same cherry recipe each year when they are bright and beautiful in the grocery stores. It gives me plenty of opportunities to experiment with new ways to enjoy fresh cherries.

Not long ago, my friend Chef Rosemary Rutland, who lives in Atlanta, told me about a dessert made with wonton wrappers that she likes to make with students in the classes she teaches. When she makes the sweet treat at home, guests are delighted with each warm, crispy bite. She folds slices of fresh plums into wonton wrappers and fries them. After coating them with powdered sugar, Chef Rosemary serves them with a generous scoop of ice cream.

I used Chef Rosemary’s creative idea to make Quick Cherry Turnovers. The only tricky part of making these crispy packages of sweet juiciness is pitting the cherries. Not as tricky as it is messy, though, with cherry juice squirting out in all directions. A little gadget called a cherry pitter works well.

You can find those at hardware stores, kitchenware stores and even some supermarkets.

But if you’ve got an empty beer bottle or a bottle with an opening that size, just place the stemmed cherry on the top of the bottle and poke the thick end of a chopstick right through the middle. The pit will fall into the bottle and squirting juice will be minimal.

Thin squares of wonton wrappers become delicate and crisp, while the sugared cherries hidden inside become warm and tender as they fry in a shallow pool of hot oil.

You can assemble the turnovers just before your guests arrive. Store them in the refrigerator on a parchment-lined platter or baking sheet. At dessert time, pull them out and in seconds you’ll be presenting a dessert your guests won’t want to end.

I’ve used the gas burner from a turkey fryer set that we got years ago. That way, I can fry the turnovers outside on the patio at the end of a summer meal for dessert on the deck. A cast iron pan works well for frying these cherry turnovers whether you’re doing it outdoors on a gas burner or inside on the stove.

Get the family involved in the preparation of Quick Cherry Turnovers. Who knows? They might become a seasonal tradition in your house. If not a tradition, there is no doubt you will be creating lifelong memories.

Sue Doeden is a food writer and photographer from Bemidji, Minn., and a former Fargo resident. Her columns are published in 10 Forum Communications newspapers.

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