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Published July 08, 2013, 11:30 PM

Review: Taco Brothers gets Mexican cuisine right

FARGO – In Mexican cooking, it’s said if you can’t get the beans right, you may as well pack it up and go home.

By: By Eric Daeuber, Special to The Forum, INFORUM

FARGO – In Mexican cooking, it’s said if you can’t get the beans right, you may as well pack it up and go home.

And it appears Taco Brothers Food Truck is staying put, at least for the summer. The mobile eatery, parked on Roberts Street, just west of the Empire Tavern, gets more than just the beans right.

The corn is grilled and cut off the cob. The guacamole is, chunky, bright and fresh. Together, they turn a tostada into the Mexillent Tostada, probably the best way to spend $4 in Fargo.

One thing to remember about ordering at Taco Brothers is that ingredients are key, and the named dish is secondary.

The beans and corn are prime examples as well as the loose, citrus rice and milky and mild queso fresco. Combine these ingredients in different dishes, and you have a paper plate of summer.

Most items are surprisingly light and refreshingly suited to warm summer nights. So your decisions are easily made.

The oddly named Trust You Bro Platter is indeed a trustworthy option. The different selections in the $7.50 meal are left up to the chef, but the ingredients are all there.

The cheese in the quesadilla browned around the edges and the beef, with its hint of more than a couple of different peppers in whatever taco shows up on your plate, are complements of each other.

A culinary cynic would argue that it’s a way to cover up a culinary mistake or to pawn off an excess of one meat or another, and maybe it is. But it doesn’t matter. They don’t seem to let anything leave the window that doesn’t meet some personal standard, which seems little short of excellent.

Atmosphere is difficult to judge because it’s a Fargo street. Is it a taste of the gritty underbelly of Fargo’s inner city? Are the big wooden spools that serve as tables a statement of authenticity? Is it all somehow ironic? You decide.

We get so little break from the ordinary in this price range that even the trains make for good company.

Taco Brothers Food Truck

•: Address: Roberts Street parking lot, west of the Empire Tavern, Fargo

•: Cuisine: Mexican

•: HOURS: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday



•: DRESS: As you like


•: FOOD: 3.5 out of 4 stars

•: SERVICE: 3 out of 4 stars

•: AMBIANCE: 1.5 out of 4 stars

Eric Daeuber is an instructor at Minnesota State Community and Technical College. Readers can reach him at food@daeuber.com.