The new Double Down sandwich from Kentucky Fried Chicken is a no-finesse play; it's a stack-the-middle, move-the-line, up-the-gut charge by the fullback.
And that goes for both flavor and concept.
Instead of a bun, this protein explosion squeezes its contents between two fried or grilled chicken fillets. The innards are as bold as the bun: Monterey jack and pepper jack cheeses, something called the Colonel's sauce and - wait for it - bacon (nature's meat equivalent to candy).
It is what it is, as the tautological cliché goes, and if you like KFC original recipe chicken, it's pretty hard to imagine that you wouldn't enjoy it bookending cheese and bacon. The fried version of this PETA-enraging meat monster has that satisfying glow that deep-fried, carbohydrate-coated meat delivers so well.
The grilled incarnation of this $4.99 sandwich boasts a pleasing smoky flavor and probably creates a more interesting companion for the bacon flavor than does its fried colleague. Though, let's be honest, if you're ordering a sandwich with a meat bun, subtle distinctions of flavor may not be what you're after.
ADVERTISEMENT
To state the obvious, the Double Down is filling, boasting 61 (grilled) and 53 (fried) grams of protein. And it's tasty. These sandwiches are simply big hunks of chicken with bacon and cheese. Do the culinary math yourself.
There's been plenty of buzz regarding the nutrition (or lack thereof) of the Double Down. One blogger called the fried Double Down "angina on a plate." A New York Daily News story described it as "a heart-stopping creation that seems literally to die for."
The Original Recipe version weighs in at a hefty 540 calories with 10 grams of saturated fat and 32 grams of total fat. It's also home to 1,380 milligrams of sodium, which is well over half the regular daily allowance. The grilled version does fare better with 80 fewer calories and 9 fewer grams of fat, but it also boasts even more sodium.
And, thankfully, there aren't any vegetable toppings to get in the way of one's animal-product intake when it comes to the Double Down.
Linda Bartholomay, manager of outpatient nutrition therapy for MeritCare, sees it as "just kind of one of those things where our portions are sort of getting distorted."
"None of us really need those two chicken patties," Bartholomay says.
But is it the worst thing to ever come out of a drive-through window? Bartholomay says "No."
By way of comparison, Hardee's 2/3 pound Monster Thickburger has 1,320 calories, 95 grams of fat and 3,020 grams of sodium. McDonald's Angus Mushroom and Swiss burger has 770 calories and 40 grams of fat.
ADVERTISEMENT
And, who knows, the Double Down may not even be around that long.
"I think it's sort of a gimmicky thing," Bartholomay says. "I can't imagine that it will last long term."
Readers can reach Forum reporter Shane Mercer at (701) 451-5734
