MOORHEAD - Despite Pizza Nico's populist logo - a raised fist clutching a pizza cutter above the slogan "Power to the Pizza" - owner Nick Enderson didn't think he'd actually run afoul of "The Man."
But when he tried to open 10 days ago, a permitting snafu and Minnesota government shutdown left him in a lurch. He weathered the delay and got the go-ahead to open Monday after the city extricated him from the mercy of the still-shuttered state government.
"I feel good," Enderson said, as the first wave of lunchtime orders moved out the door. "I wasn't ever too worried."
The restaurant is a hobby turned profession for Enderson, 28, who worked at a pizzeria in college and has been cooking his own pizzas since.
"Our philosophy is we make it like we'd make it for ourselves," he said. In fact, he and his wife spent the past year doing just that, throwing dinner parties that doubled as taste tests for friends and families.
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"They used to have pizza parties at their place when they were getting serious," said Krista Ulrich, a friend of the Endersons who was on the tasting end of a few such occasions. "They gave us samples to try to figure out what works and get the crust right."
Ulrich was in the restaurant Monday during the lunch hour to pick up her order.
There's no dining room - just carry-out and delivery. Pizza Nico delivers to all of Fargo and Moorhead (delivery is $2). Enderson said they'll go farther unless they're swamped with orders.
Specialty pizzas range from $12 for a small to $16 for a large supreme. Sandwiches - many of which mirror pizza flavors such as barbecue beef and chicken pesto - are $8. The menu also includes a handful of sides like breadsticks and calzones.
Enderson got a scare two weeks ago when a series of miscues threatened to leave him without a final permit to open. He filed for a food and beverage license with the city, but found out he needed to go through the county - right before the county permitting process was shut down on July 1, along with much of Minnesota government, because of an ongoing state budget standoff.
The city intervened on his behalf, arguing he passed every step short of getting the license itself, and he got clearance to open Monday.
Business profile: Pizza Nico
- What: Pizza Nico
- Where: 501 Main Ave.. Moorhead
- Hours: 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., 5 p.m. to 3 a.m.
- Contact: (218) 477-3030
- Online: www.pizzanico.com
Readers can reach Forum reporter Marino Eccher at (701) 241-5502
