Scallop recipes bring out flavor of tasty mollusks

Scallops are bivalve mollusks with two lovely scalloped, fan-shaped shells. Sometimes the shells are used to serve Couquilles St. Jacques, a delicious dish made with scallops, onion, wine and garnished with cheese.

While there are many species of scallops, the ones we usually find in local markets are either bay scallops, which number about 100 to the pound, or sea scallops, which number about 30 to the pound.

What we eat is the adductor muscle, which hinges the two shells together. In the bay scallops this muscle is about a half-inch in diameter, and in the sea scallops it is about 1½ inches in diameter. The bay scallop is somewhat more tender than a sea scallop, but the meat from each is sweet and moist.

The frozen scallops available in local markets should be used within a day of defrosting and unfrozen scallops should be used immediately, as they are very perishable.

Take care not to overcook scallops as they will toughen quickly. When their translucence fades and they turn opaque, they are done. If the recipe calls for putting the scallops in a sauce, cook the sauce first and add the scallops later.

My Scallops

Olive oil for sautéing

1 large onion, chopped

1 bulb fennel, chopped

8 ounces mushrooms, washed and sliced

1 package (12 ounces) frozen bay scallops, defrosted, washed and drained

8 ounces pasta (rotini, shells, macaroni)

¼ cup fresh lime juice

Not quite ½ cup olive oil

Parmesan

Sauté onion, fennel and mushrooms in some olive oil until onions are translucent and mushrooms have begun to release their aroma. Set aside. Prepare pasta and toward the end of its cooking time, return vegetables to the heat and add scallops. Cook until they begin to firm up. Drain pasta, put it in a bowl and add scallop mixture, lime juice and olive oil. Toss to combine and serve with grated Parmesan. Serves 2 to 3.

Scallop Chowder

2 slices bacon, chopped

1 large onion, chopped

1 large russet potato, peeled and diced

1 medium carrot, diced

1 large celery rib, diced

1 sprig fresh thyme or a generous pinch of dried thyme

3½ cups homemade chicken stock

½ cup light cream

12 ounces bay scallops, thawed if frozen (or sea scallops, quartered)

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Sauté bacon until crispy. Add onion, potato, carrot and celery and sauté until onion is cooked but not brown. Add thyme, chicken stock and cream. Bring to a simmer and add scallops. Cook for about 5 or 6 minutes, add salt and pepper to taste and serve. Serves 6.

Julia Child's Coquilles St. Jacques A La Provençale

½ yellow onion, minced

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 large shallot, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

1½ pounds scallops, washed

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1 cup flour, sifted in a dish

Xc cup dry white wine

½ bay leaf

1 sprig fresh thyme

6 scallop shells or ramekins, buttered

¼ cup good cheese; grated

2 tablespoons butter, cut in 6 pieces

Cook onions in a small saucepan with 1 tablespoon of butter for 5 minutes or until tender and translucent but not browned. Stir in shallots and garlic. Cook slowly 1 minute more. Set aside. Dry scallops and cut into slices ¼-inch thick. Just before cooking, sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll in flour, and shake off excess flour. Sauté scallops quickly in 2 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil for 2 minutes. Pour wine into skillet with scallops. Add herbs and cooked onion mixture. Cover skillet and simmer 4 minutes. Uncover and if necessary, boil down sauce rapidly for 1 minute until lightly thickened. Discard bay leaf and thyme. Spoon scallops and sauce into shells or ramekins. Sprinkle with cheese and dot with butter. Just before serving, run under a moderately hot broiler for 3 to 4 minutes to heat through and to brown cheese slightly. Serves 6.

Inforum searchword: Halgrimson

Sources: Andrea's recipe files, "The Food Lover's Companion" by Sharon Tyler Herbst

Readers can reach Forum food columnist Andrea Hunter Halgrimson at ahalgrimson@forumcomm.com